Besakih Temple

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The biggest altar in Besakih Temple complex.

As there are thousands of temples in Bali, there is one that becomes the largest of all. It’s Pura Besakih (Besakih temple) which is referred to as the largest and the most important temple in Bali. This is the mother temple of Bali. This is actually not really ‘a temple’. People just call it ‘a temple’ to make it easy to hear. It’s actually a large complex of temples consist about 30 temples. It was built on the slope of Mount Agung (gunung agung) –which is the highest mountain in Bali, also the most holy place for Balinese Hindus. Located at about 900 meters above the sea level, it gives wonderful views of mountainous area –including the view of Mount Agung in the background-, in addition to the views of shrines at the temple complex itself.

Getting to besakih temple is quite easy. Two good starting points are Ubud and Kuta. From Ubud, it takes about 2 hours to the northeast. On your way, you can have a quick visit to Kintamani, a place to see Batur Volcano and Batur Lake. From Kuta, It takes a little longer since you have to go to the east and then the north. You go to the east towards Sanur beach through the fast track coastal route. Then you go to the north after the signs for Klungkung.You should see a sign for besakih after a few of kilometers from the point you go to the north.

At the main entrance of the temple, you’ll need to pay Rp. 7500 for the entrance fee, Rp. 1000 for the parking fee, Rp. 1000 for camera use, and Rp. 2500 for video camera use. To give respect to the temples –which are holy places used for Hindu praying-, you have to rent and then wear sarong and sash. Sarong and sash are clothes used by Balinese people when they’re praying at worshipping places, like temples for example.

To get to the complex of the temples, you’ll need to walk up on a footpath. Walking on a steep hill is pretty exhausting, but then it’s paid off when you get to see great views on your way to the complex. If you prefer to ride a motorcycle instead of walking, there are locals who offer motorcycles for rent.

From the distance, you can see the complex of the temples with Mount Agung in the background. The complex looks like terraces that extend up the mountain. Each terrace is connected with stairs. There are courtyards on each terrace with altars and shrines that tower up. It’s a good spot to take pictures anyway.

As you enter the ‘real’ gate of the temple, you’ll meet some guides who offer helps to show you around the temple. If you’ve never been to this temple before and want to know more about it, it’s a good idea to have one of the guides. It costs about 25 dollars. If you don’t want to be guided, just say ‘no’. Then you can walk around on your own. The tourists, especially foreign tourists, sometimes find the guides annoying. Just so you know, some of the guides might force you to hire them. They’ll follow you until you say ‘yes’. Some of the tourists who’d been there complained that the guides didn’t allow them to enter the temple until they hire one of the guides, -which costs about 25 dollars. That really is uncomfortable and deviates from the rules. That’s just a fraud. The guides don’t have any authority to allow or not the visitors to enter the area of temple. If you ever feel disturbed or annoyed by such things, don’t hesitate to report to the temple guardians or officials.

On the left side of the temple gate, you’ll see the first group of temples. It’s Pura Dalem Puri (Temple of palace ancestors). For Hindus who live around the temple, this temple is a sacred place. It is to store dust of dead people from Ngaben Ceremony.

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	Complex of Besakih Temple with the background of Mount agung.

Next, you’ll walk on a steep flight of stairs that will take you to Pura Penataran Agung (the great state temple – temple of Shiva). This is the center of Besakih temple attractions. This temple with two other important temples situated higher up the slope is the most dominant of all the temples in the complex. Its towering merus stand on a high bank of terraces, making it look like pillars prop the sky. Pura Penataran Agung with two other important temples which are Pura Kiduling Kreteg (temple of Brahma) –positioned at the right- and Pura Batu Madeg (temple of Vishnu) –positioned at the left-, represent the Trishakti –the trinity of Hinduism. The Gods are Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Each of the three main temples is decorated with different colors of banners. Red banners for the temple of Brahma, white banners for the temple of Shiva, and black banners for the temple of Vishnu.

Overall, there are five main parts of this large Besakih complex. They all are called Panca Dewata. Panca Dewata means 5 Gods of 4 directions and a center. The center of the 4 Gods is Pura Penaturan Agung –temple of Shiva. The other four are Pura Ulun Kulkul located in the west, Pura Gelap located in the east, Pura Batu Medeg –temple of Vishnu- located in the north, and Pura Kiduling Kretek –temple of Brahma- located in the south.